Virgil Abloh nods to early rave culture in Louis Vuitton SS22 show

Virgil Abloh
presented his Spring/Summer 2022 menswear collection for Louis Vuitton on
Thursday at Paris Fashion Week, a cinematic spectacle that touched on
themes of rave culture, martial arts and gender.

The collection was presented in a film called ‘Amen Break’ – a reference
to a little-known drum riff from a song called ‘Amen, Brother’ by funk-soul
group The Winstons that went onto underpin the foundation of hip-hop and
jungle genres.

“The film reflects on a historic moment in Black art and culture when
electronic music and hip-hop emerged like twins from the same egg, and
trickled into every part of the globe,” the brand said in a release.

Chess a key theme in Louis Vuitton SS22 show

The collection featured an array of chequers – a nod to the Damier motif
and “the cultural tapestry of Virgil Abloh”. They are interpreted
throughout the collection in various textures for three-dimensional or
trompe l’oeil effects.

Flyers like those distributed at 1990s raves are woven into transparent
monogrammed nylon jackets and patchworked in cotton shirts, while padding
reflects the protective uniforms of sports and martial Arts, entering into
a variety of pieces panelled with hard geometrical shapes.

Other key looks included landscape bags created in jacquard made from
recycled polyester thread and two suits made in collaboration by New York
artist Jim Joe – one black suit with beaded embroidery and a full-body knit
morph suit with a chequer pattern.